 After
a decade of living in the shadow of its northern neighbor Seattle, Portland
(aka PDX, Stumptown, Bridgetown, P-Town) has quietly emerged as one
of the world’s cornerstone cities of indie culture. Low rents,
a friendly public transportation system, and an abundance of basements
have made Portland a terribly attractive destination for bands from
all across the country who have settled in the rose city. As a matter
of fact, over half of all Portlanders are from out of town, but nonetheless
many of indie rock’s biggest success stories call Portland home,
including members of The Shins, The Decemberists, Modest Mouse, Death
Cab for Cutie, The Gossip, !!!, Spoon, as well as the fabulous Kill
Rock Stars label. Oh, and Stephen Malkmus lives here…in a castle
(not really, but kinda). And if that isn’t enough, we’ve
also got Johnny Marr.
With such a wealth of great music, Portland has become somewhat
of a destination for the indie inclined, but a visit could be frustrating
for those not familiar with the city’s layout. If you’ve
only got a very short time in Portland, avoid downtown and heed Carrie
Brownstein’s personal standards: “If you wanna be a friend
of mine, cross the river to the east side” ('Light Rail Coyote',
Sleater-Kinney’s ode to Portland). SE Portland is where you’re
likely to spot your indie heroes being normal people. It’s sprawling
and nothing seems immediate, but a good tip is to keep your wandering
framed by Burnside to the north and Clinton to the south, with the river
to your west, Morrison, Belmont, and Hawthorne in the middle, and the
stately Laurelhurst neighborhood to your east. If you’ve exhausted
the SE, head up to NE Portland for the Mississippi and Alberta districts
for yet more charming cafes, record shops, galleries and grub. On the
west side of the Willamette, you’ll find urban congestion and
chain stores, but a walk along riverfront park on a sunny day can’t
be beat, plus there are a few charming spots to be found up around NW
21st, and the best book store in the country (Powell’s, see below)
is a must-visit for bibliophiles.
Portlanders have a reputation for being one of the most politically
progressive urban populations in America. The city’s mayor, Sam
Adams, is the first openly gay man to be elected mayor of a large US
city, and the Bush administration nicknamed the city “Little Beirut”
for the passionate nature of the city’s protests. During the 2008
US Presidential campaign, Portlanders greeted Barack Obama with his
largest crowd on the road to the White House. Chain stores are a rare
and unwelcome sight in Portland – Starbucks being public enemy
#1. Buying local from an independent business is a friendly and affordable
experience here. And the prized local coffee, called Stumptown, is something
very special.
Welcome to Portland. While you’re here, why not eat an erotic
doughnut, stalk indie stars, hike a volcano, fuck the system, kiss a
vegan, grab a coffee, and write a zine about it all.
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