Berlin, Germany

By Ingo Hager

After 1945, Berlin developed in two completely different directions. The Eastern part became the cultural centre of the GDR, even though most of the music was controlled by the government, while West Berlin saw itself as a city on the frontline. Unbelievable amounts of money were transferred to West Berlin by the West German state to make it appear as a "beacon", surrounded by the East German state that belonged to the “other side” during the Cold War. At the same time, West Berlin became a place for people who rejected the system of capitalism or the West German state as a whole. Lots of young West German boys fled to West Berlin after school, because having an address in Berlin meant you did not have to join the army. A huge punk scene developed there in the late 70s and early 80s. After the reunion of both parts in 1990, the West German state was not able to establish the public order in the Eastern parts of the city immediately. So within this bubble, a huge new scene was developed by all kinds of artists, musicians etc arriving in the city. Old and empty buildings in the East were squatted and transferred to cultural areas. These wild days have more and more gone, but they have left over a huge scene which tends to grow continually (within legal paths now). The government of the city has recognized that culture and art is one of the main factors that keep the city alive (besides tourism), so they invest money into that. Today, you can find an international music scene in the city, lots of indie, punk, gothic, as well as techno of course and other related electro stuff. And a huge jazz scene has developed over the recent years, too.

Karrera Klub
Generally, the biggest promoter of the Berlin based indie music scene is Karrera Klub, who put on club nights and live shows in a variety of different clubs. These are three guys called Tim, Spencer and Christian. Whilst Tim and Spencer prefer the poppy side of life, keep in mind that you might get confronted with dirty rock sounds when DJ Christian is announced. To follow them will certainly keep you up to date with all the new hot stuff from the British, American and German indie scene. Here you can find all their stuff:
(www.karreraklub.de)

Ship Shape Club
Another group around is the Ship Shape Club DJ collective which also runs the Firestation Record label. They are mainly busy with releasing records, so they are not DJing on a regular basis. But when they do so it is really worth going there. They mainly stick to the nice and beautiful pop and twee sounds. So while at a Karrera Klub night it is more likely to hear the new Arctic Monkeys record, the Ship Shape Club brings fine northern soul rarities and their Field Mice record collection back to daylight. On their website you find the releases plus any Ship Shape Club dates.
(www.firestation-records.de)

Klikerklub
This is another bunch of nice boys that is here to organise indiepop parties to present their personal favourite tunes. Not as big as Karrera Klub, Klikerklub acts on a much smaller and cosier level. Very amiable, all this.
(www.klikerklub.de)

Sonic Pop Allnighter
Another DJ collective operating in different clubs. They put on indiepop, 60s, new wave and northern soul galore, depending on the size of the venue or what the crowd wants to listen to. So on one night you might hear more contemporary Britpop whilst at some other date they like to display their Sarah Records 7” collection.
(www.sonic-pop-allnighter.de)

The Northern Soul Allnighter
As the name says, these guys and girls specialize on everything connected with Northern Soul, Motown or rare 60s. You have to check local listings because they don’t seem to have a website. They occasionally perform together with the Karrera Klub team when there is a venue with more than one floor. So you can switch between indie and soul the whole night.

Indie Aner
Yet another nice indie DJ collective, consisting of DJ To and DJ Five, serving you all the new and hot British indie pop / rock sounds as well as classic indie hits. You can find them in various locations around town, just check their website. There you will find a list of their favourite bands as well, so you will know what to expect pretty well.
(www.indieaner.de/)

Venues

King Kong Klub
Brunnenstrasse 173, 10119 Berlin. Station: Rosenthaler Platz
Famous location, varying DJs serve the full range of indie, new wave, northern soul, post punk, funk etc. Usually there is free entrance. The place gets busy after midnight and it can get really wild in there. Top-notch place to get drunk, to accost some stupid tourists from Munich or to have fun with a filled-up bully boy from Liverpool. The website is a bit confusing, so check local listings to know what is really going on at a particular date.
(www.king-kong-klub.de)

Lido
Cuvrystrasse 7, 10997 Berlin. Station: Schlesisches Tor.
This historic place has been a cinema in the 1950s and has later turned into a theatre rehearsal room. Now it is a club with a main focus on all kinds of indie music. The place is run by a part of the Karrera Klub team. Go here if you want to see some of the bands again you have already seen in London or for a happy mod/indie/soul night out. Nice atmosphere and a little beer garden in the backyard.
(www.lido-berlin.de)

Magnet
Greifswalder Strasse 212, 10405 Berlin. Station: take Tram from Alexanderplatz going up Greifswalder Strasse
Another venue for all the contemporary indie bands, although in the recent past this place has become more rock than it has been a few years ago. In case there is a band playing you really love you should go there early and catch them having dinner inside that tasty Asian takeaway restaurant right next door.
(www.magnet-club.de)

Schokoladen
Ackerstrasse 169, 10115 Berlin. Station: Rosenthaler Platz
One of Berlin’s most beautiful venues for live music. This is a very small venue with an even smaller stage inside where you can really feel at home. The drinks are cheap and the atmosphere is friendly. Schokoladen (Schokolade means …well, chocolate) is sited in an old defunct chocolate factory. Go here to discover nice non-fashionable or timeless indie and lo-fi music or new singer/songwriters.
(www.schokoladen-mitte.de)

Mudd Club
Grosse Hamburger Strasse 17, 10115 Berlin. Station: Hackescher Markt
The Mudd Club used to be a famous punk venue in New York, but in 1990 or so the owner packed it all in and moved to Berlin to re-open it here. Located down in the vaults of an old building right in the center of the historic Jewish district, you find lots of indie, rock, gothic and Balkan music parties there as well as indie live gigs. Although I find it not necessarily useful with the girls at the bar making a noise carrying beer crates around while there is a quiet acoustic band on stage, this is still an important venue in Berlin. Check local listing for what is happening there, their website has been freshly re-designed, so you won’t find much there at the moment.
(www.muddclub.de)

Zapata
Oranienburger Strasse 54, 10117 Berlin. Station: Oranienburger Tor
The Zapata venue is part of the famous Tacheles art complex. In the early days of the 20th century this place has accomodated one of Europe’s biggest warehouses. Destroyed in the war and left to rot till 1989, it has been squatted by some artists who turned this place into a free art zone. Inside, the Zapata looks a bit odd, reminding me of knights and castles and a heavy metal souvenir shop. But once in a while some interesting indie bands are showing up there. The place gets crowded very fast, so be sure to order your beer early, otherwise you get stuck in the queue right next to that funny fire-spitting something at the bar that turns the already hot and sweaty atmosphere into a limbo.
(www.cafe-zapata.de)

Privat Club
Pücklerstrasse 34, 10997 Berlin. Station: Schlesisches Tor
Nice club in the basement of a restaurant called “Markthalle” where you get served one of the best Schnitzels in Berlin. Follow the directions to Men’s toilet, then go down the stairs and you are in the Privat Club. All kinds of indiepop, alternative, 80s and lots of rare funk and soul parties with indie live bands regularly starting the night. Avoid this place in summer unless you used to live in a tropical country or you just don’t care about heat.
(www.privatclub-berlin.de)

Bastard
Kastanienallee 7, 10435 Berlin. Station: Eberswalder Strasse
Famous place for live gigs and parties. Not only indie is played here but also electronic nights take place. Check local listings for what is on, their website is down for ages and nobody seems to care. Nice place to discover not-(yet)-so-well-known indie bands or bands that usually hardly leave the UK for gigs. In the backyard of this place there is the large Prater beer garden, which is also worth checking out, although in the summer it can be very crowded and full of South German tourists thinking they have just discovered the hipster scene of the city.

Maria
Stralauer Platz 34/35, 10243 Berlin. Station: Ostbahnhof
Located in an old industrial building, this place usually hosts electronic nights, ranging from dubstep to drum’n bass to breakcore. I mention this place because the live music they offer is mainly indie-style. .
(www.clubmaria.de)

L.U.X
Schlesische Strasse 41, 10997 Berlin. Station: Schlesisches Tor
Nice and not very well-known place for live music and party nights, ranging from indie to northern soul and kitsch pop. Very friendly in there, they just do what they like in there. Their weekly newsletters let you take part in what is going on in the private life of the owner. Interesting interiors, too. Closed on Sunday and Monday.
(www.lux-berlin.net)

NBI
Schönhauser Allee 36, 10435 Berlin. Station: Eberswalder Strasse
This place has unfortunately lost some of its charming atmosphere since they have moved to a bigger place a few years ago. Now the NBI belongs to a complex called “Kulturbrauerei” (which means culture brewery, because this place has been a real brewery in the past and now the whole complex has been carefully restorated and put under a monument protection order). So still nice anyway. Go here for the indie and electronica sounds overdose, and when you arrive before 10 pm you have a chance to keep seated in your sofa the whole night.
(www.neueberlinerinitiative.de)

Kaffee Burger
Torstrasse 58, 10119 Berlin. Station: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
Really beautiful inside, but you won’t have a chance to notice that because the place is always overcrowded with tourists. This venue has become famous for their “Russendisko” (Russian disco), packed with Eastern European Rock sounds. In general this place offers mainly indie and soul sounds, but also film screenings or literature nights.
(www.kaffeeburger.de)

Roter Salon
Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz (inside Volksbühne, use side entrance), 10178 Berlin. Station: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
Not so beautiful as Kaffee Burger (but you can’t complain), yet also overcrowded with tourists. This place is part of the famous Volksbühne theatre, so this might be a reason to go there and have a look. Lots of indie, Motown, northern soul and drum ‘n bass nights there and a good party crowd guaranteed. Also live gigs.
(www.roter-salon.de)

Antje Oeklesund
Rigaer Strasse 71/73, 10247 Berlin. Station: Samariter Strasse
This secret place rejects to promote their events, you have to subscribe for their newsletter or know their website to find out what is going on. Each Tuesday and Friday they have live music and DJ nights, usually the entrance is free. Go to that old run down industrial site to discover new singer/songwriters with acoustic guitars, local indiepop outfits, experimental electronic weirdos from Toronto or Dutch comedians with a harp.
(www.antjeoeklesund.de)

Rosi's
Revaler Strasse 29, 10245 Berlin. Station: Warschauer Strasse
Old shack in the middle of nowhere in Friedrichshain, but since they have installed an air-conditioner that is really working you can dare to go there. Mainly indie and electronic nights, very busy. Try it in the summer when they open their front yard for BBQ and open air parties or little markets on Sunday afternoons.
(www.rosis-berlin.de)

Festsaal Kreuzberg/West Germany
Festsaal Kreuzberg: Skalitzer Strasse 130, 10999 Berlin, Station: Kottbusser Tor
West Germany: Skalitzer Strasse 133, 10999 Berlin, Station: Kottbusser Tor
Two venues with live gigs ranging from experimental music, post punk and lo-fi to noise and really weird stuff. Both places are regularly rented by an agency called Twisted Robot that sets up live shows and parties there. While the Festsaal Kreuzberg has a beautiful ballroom atmosphere inside and is in general mainly used for family parties and Turkish weddings, the nearby location called West Germany is (as far as I know) an old and otherwise empty doctor’s surgery place. Surely the perfect location to mess around in and be noisy.
(www.twistedrobot.com/index.htm)
(www.myspace.com/festsaal_kreuzberg)

Kaufbar
Gärtnerstrasse 4, 10245 Berlin. Station: Warschauer Strasse, Open every day from 10 am till 1 am (I believe). Free entry.
This is really one of my favourite places. Nice, warm, calm and cosy atmosphere. This is a café where you can buy the furniture you’re sitting on. (This is why this place is called “Kaufbar” which means purchasable, but you have as well the word “bar” in it). The good thing is that this way the place keeps changing all the time, because each time somebody buys something the owners bring new stuff to replace it. But it always remains beautiful in there. Perfect for a coffee or tea, self-made cake, soup, a small breakfast, or to sit on the sofa in a corner to read a book or to find a mate to play chess with. The background music is mainly for Belle & Sebastian lovers, and each time I go there at least half of the guests look like they have just arrived from planet Twee. Sometimes they have exhibitions going on there. Or a poetry reading. And in the summertime there is a little beer garden in the back of the house.
(www.kaufbar-berlin.de)

Habermeyer
Gärtnerstraße 6, 10245 Berlin. Station: Warschauer Strasse, Open every day from 7 pm till late. Free entry.
Looks a bit dark from the outside, but inside it’s quite comfortable. The bar is equipped in a unique retro plastic style, and they have a little machine there which you can feed with a 1 EUR coin, and then it lets you pull one of its drawers. Inside the drawer you will find a surprise, maybe even an old vinyl 7”. DJs are there on most of the nights, the music is mainly focused on 60s Beat and soul, rock’n roll and surf, but also regular indiepop nights (electronic music can happen there, too, but not very often). Go there after 10 pm, earlier you will hardly find anybody in there except staff members.

8mm Bar
Schönhauser Allee 177, 10437 Berlin. Station: Senefelder Platz, Open every day from 8 or 9 pm till late
One of the indie hotspots of Berlin. It gets crowded shortly before midnight, but going there early might prevent you from paying 1 EUR entrance fee. Students, artists from New York and a bunch of rock-n-roll-go-to-hell people all in one place. There are different DJs on most of the nights, so the music can vary between indie rock, northern soul, synth pop, new wave, 70s punk rock, 60s beat or avant garde. Sometimes the DJs are people from bands playing the other night in some other place, and once in a while when you’re lucky you have Tim Gane of Stereolab standing behind the desk.
(www.8mmbar.com)

Konrad Tönz
Falckensteinstrasse 30, 10997 Berlin. Station: Schlesisches Tor, Open from Tue – Sun from around 9.00 pm till everybody’s gone home. Free entry.
Named after the legendary Swiss correspondent of a popular German TV show called “Aktenzeichen XY” (the original format of “Crimewatch UK”), this place is certainly the one with the biggest kitsch appeal around. Looking at the psychedelic wallpapers might make you feel dizzy, so try to compensate this feeling by trying their extra sweet and fruity cocktails. The front room of the bar is packed with plush as well as framed photos of Charles and Diana. At the weekend there are DJs around, putting on old Adriano Celentano hits, Twist, Garage or the German 60s sing-a-long version of Black Sabbath’s “Paranoid” and other real psychedelic stuff. All records are played on a portable mono record player. Nice people there, but this is more a place to go to during the cold season.
(www.konradtoenzbar.de)

Mysliwska
Schlesische Strasse 35, 10997 Berlin. Station: Schlesisches Tor, Open every day from 7 pm (I think) till late. Free entry.
One of the numerous bars on the Schlesische Strasse, but this has become my favourite since the DJ there played Edith Piaf. Basically this is just a small bar with slightly worn out interiors. And very crowded, too. The music can be whatever (indie, jazz or Edith Piaf), but it is worth checking it out. Nice and interesting people there. Sometimes there is a DJ and sometimes there is none. But as I said, there are many nice bars on this particular street, and obviously it has not yet been discovered by too many tourists (Please consider that in all the places you hear lots of English or Spanish speaking people, but that doesn’t mean they are tourists). Also on this street you can find other good bars like Cake, Barbie Deinhoffs etc. presenting mainly indie music. They are in the neighbourhood of Mysliwska, so just keep on walking around and follow the people that look like they love some good music.

Bar 25
Holzmarktstrasse 25, 10243 Berlin. Station: between Ostbahnhof and Jannowitzbrücke, Open every day from 4 pm till late (restaurant is open from 6 pm till 1 am only)
One of the bars in Berlin that are located directly at the river. But I think this is one of the best. The entrance is a bit hard to find, but once you stepped on the area, you will find a beautiful waterfront, a wooden wild-west-style market with BBQ, a restaurant area, a lounge area with sofas, and a little open-air cinema showing independent productions. There are regular DJs, the music differs from time to time, but don’t go there for the music only but to see the place itself. Nobody knows how long this will continue to exist – the bar is located in a zone that is highly in danger because some investors with convertible BMWs have heard from that site, and they are interested in the real deal and not in some nice people with an eclectic taste in music. (Personally, I have not yet tried the restaurant, but I heard the food is really good there.)
(www.bar25.de/)

San Remo Upflamör
Falckensteinstrasse 46, 10997 Berlin. Station: Schlesisches Tor, Open every day from 10 am to 2 am
Really cute café/bar in 70s retro style. They offer small food plates, but mainly go and enjoy the friendly people around you. Occasionally DJs put on some indiepop or French chansons. Absolutely lovely.
(www.sanremo-upflamoer.de)

Generally I have to say two things about my list of record stores. First, I concentrate on the ones that sell mainly vinyl. If you prefer to purchase cheap CDs, go to the basement of the Saturn Electro Supermarket at Alexanderplatz and look for their special sale offers. But beware this place is one without a soul. The other thing I must point out is that I list the stores that mainly sell indie. There are many other good record stores around, but these tend to offer electro, house, techno, hip hop, reggae, classical music, blues, or whatever genre. So I leave them out.

Mr Dead And Mrs Free
Bülowstrasse 5, 10783 Berlin. Station: Nollendorfplatz, Open Mon- Fri from 11 am to 7 pm, Sat 11 pm to 3 or 4 pm
Named after a theatre play by the New York based “Squat Theatre” Group, this record shop is the most well-known indie record store in Berlin. Established in the early 80s, they started selling all new wave and punk stuff, now you can find mainly everything that is somehow labelled “indie” there. Some 60s stuff, new folk etc is also offered. Still they sell mainly vinyl. The shop is not very large at all, but somehow they manage to squeeze in everything that is important. The staff has a good knowledge of indie music and is really friendly and helpful. They try to order everything you ask them to do.
(www.deadandfree.com)

Recordstore Berlin
Brunnenstrasse 186, 10119 Berlin. Station: Rosenthaler Platz, Open Mon-Sat, 12pm-8pm.
This shop that used to be called “Downtown Records” now just calls itself “Recordstore” and is a first-class address for the serious vinyl collector. Basically you will find three things inside: A salesperson who really knows his stuff and who is always happy to assist and to talk with you about … well … collecting vinyl, a large selection of all new indie and folk releases, and an even bigger selection of true original UK and US releases of 60s beat, northern soul and funk, spiced up with French chansons, film soundtracks and jazz. Browse through the stock and listen to as many records as you like on one of the turntables. But be not surprised to find autographed Beatles albums or the true original first Velvet Underground & Nico release with the banana sticker that you can peel off the cover. And when you take your new treasure to the counter you will finally notice all these little wooden boxes on the wall behind you, filled with hundreds of northern soul and mod 7” records that you oversaw before. This shop is a must, but go to a cash drawer first!

Rocksteady Records
Motzstrasse 9, 10777 Berlin. Station: Nollendorfplatz, Open: Mon – Fri 11 am till 7 pm, Sat 10 am to 4 pm
Another shop for collectors, and you will find mainly vinyl here. This is a long-term established store, serving many different musical tastes. Though there is much rock on sale, you will also find a lot of indiepop and new wave, as well as jazz, soundtracks, 60s soul and French chansons in there. Really remarkable is their stock of some original pieces from African countries and the Middle East, altough it seems to me that this part of the stock has unfortunately been cut down a bit since they have moved to their new premises. But here you might still find some original Israeli 60s settlers-folk music or the original Algerian pressing of Chaba Fadela’s “N Sel Fik”, which was re-released on Factory Records a few years later. Oh, and please don’t get scared by their awful website, it really just contains the basic information. This is a real old-fashioned but good record store and not a webdesign office.
(www.rocksteadyrecords.de)

Freakout
Prenzlauer Allee 49, 10405 Berlin. Station: Tram M10 to Prenzlauer Allee / Corner Danziger Strasse. Open: Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm Sat 11am-4pm.
Well this shop is really odd. There is no doubt they have a great stock of mainly indie vinyl inside, added with electronica and everything that is new or interesting or off the beaten track. But also there is no doubt that this is maybe the most unfriendly shop I have ever been to.

Leila M
Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 30, (inside the Babylon cinema), 10437 Berlin. Station: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, Open: Mon – Fri 12 am till 8 pm, Sat 1 pm to 8 pm
I occasionally visit this nice shop inside the Babylon art film cinema. They offer a nice selection of electronica and indiepop there, you can browse their stock on the website, too. Not really the impossible-to-find rarities are waiting for you here, but this store attracts mainly the customers who want to keep up with new, interesting music that is hot and talked about. Lots of releases from local bands on sale. Helpful staff.
(www.leila-m.de)

Staalplaat
Torstrasse 68, 10119 Berlin. Station: Rosa-Luxemburg Platz, Open: Tue-Sat 2pm-7pm
This is the shop that belongs to the famous Dutch label and distribution service with the same name. Inside you might find really some records you don’t find anywhere else in Berlin. Jazz, avant garde and indie is on sale there, as well as music and compilations coming from outside Western European countries. In case the new release of the Honest Jon’s label is already sold out on Portobello Road, you might still find a copy here. Try their website for catalogue research.
(www.staalplaat.com)

Vopo Records
Danziger Strasse 31, 10435 Berlin. Station: Eberswalder Strasse, Open: Mon – Fri 12 am to 8 pm, Sat 12 am to 4 pm
The shop is named after the abbreviation for “VOlksPOlizist” which has been the official name of the GDR’s police officer. If you’re feeling uncomfortable to shop in front of a sign that clearly states "Those who try to steal will die immediately“ give this shop a miss, but otherwise go and check what they have inside. The shop’s main focus is punk, rock’n roll, hardcore and everything with a good kicking guitar sound, but they also offer some second hand indie stuff. Just check the website. Go there to meet people with a punk attitude and a good heart inside. Vinyl and CDs on offer.
(www.vopo-records.de)

Station B
Kastanienallee 94
Schones Horen
Marienburger Strasse 39
Both shops are situated in the borough of Prenzlauer Berg. I can’t say much about them, but as far as I know they offer a lot of Indie music there. I should go and have a look around, then I can post some additional information.

Ghosttown Records
Gabriel-Max-Strasse 10, 10245 Berlin
Small but packed second hand shop in the borough of Friedrichshain which is, as the name might suggest, specialises in ska, reggae, dub and rocksteady. It also stocks a fair amount of 80s Indie / New Wave / Goth music as well as Punk and Hardcore. Mainly vinyl is on sale. Always a good place to find some odd rare record or white label promo in there.

Soul Trade
Sanderstrasse 29, 12047 Berlin. Open: Mon-Wed 11-7, Tue-Thu / Fri 11-8, Sat 12-6
Actually I wanted to list only shops which are somehow indie-focussed. But here I have to make an exception for a good reason. Soultrade is hidden in a side-street of a not-so-fashionable neighbourhood and sure you'll find some indie stuff in there. But mainly this place is an excellent address for finding rare grooves, downtempo sounds, or 60s music from Brazil. Actually a world-class address to give your indie record collection a twist. Or if you are a DJ or producer, go here to find that unique groove or bassline that you always wanted. Soultrade is also a mailorder shop, so check their website for searching the catalogue and order online.
(www.soultrade.de)

Local Bands

Sternbuschweg
German language indiepop, really beautiful, good live band
(www.myspace.com/sternbuschweg)

The Speed Of Stars
Very nice guitar Indiepop band, still unsigned
(www.myspace.com/thespeedofstars)

Brokof
More quiet, Indie and Folk influenced
(www.myspace.com/brokof)

Sorry Gilberto
Friends of Brokof, both recently played together for a record release party. Nice people all the way.
(www.myspace.com/sorrygilberto)

The Virgin Tongues
I accidentally discovered them, they seem to be very new, don’t know anything about them, just listen here
(www.myspace.com/thevirgintongues)

The good thing in Berlin is that generally there is no curfew. The bars and clubs are open as long as they like, so basically there are only three ways to end the party:
1. The venues have set up a closing time by themselves
2. Everybody has gone home or somewhere else
3. The neighbours have called the police because of noise pollution

Different from the UK, it is still allowed to smoke nearly everywhere in town, except public transport, public buildings like hospitals, schools etc. But this will radically change in 2008. From 2008 on, there are new laws in Germany concerning smoking, and they can differ from region to region. As far as I know, Berlin will be one of the most restricted places then.

Different from Munich, nobody in Berlin cares if you drink in public or carry your bottles around, planning to open them in the public trains.

In case you are thinking of travelling by car, check your car brand first and then think about where you like to park your car. In the wake of the G8 summit protests it has become highly fashionable to set expensive cars on fire. No worries if you are travelling with an old flower painted Volkswagen Bus, but if you think of using your new Mercedes, try to leave it dirty at last. The danger your car will burn out differs from borough to borough, in case you are unsure check this detailed list where they keep up with all the latest incidents:
http://www.brennende-autos.de
But this is only a temporary fashion, I am sure these incidents will disappear again very fast, but might be important to know for Summer of 2007.

Schneeweiss
Simplonstrasse 16, 10245 Berlin.
Hidden in a small side street, the Schneeweiss restaurant is one of my personal favourite places serving first class cuisine from the Alps. Inside it is all snow white (this is what “schneeweiss” means). The crowd in there is mixed, ranging from business people with a tie, to families, fashion people, to the local neighbourhood. The good thing is that you don’t have to bother with your outfit at all, nobody will send you away (except when they are fully booked, which regularly happens at the weekends). So in case you fancy a high quality dinner with some bottles of fine wine and really excellent food, but prefer to stick to your dirty retro Adidas sneakers and your self-printed My Bloody Valentine shirt, then this is the place for you.
(www.schneeweiss-berlin.de)

Aldemir Pizza And Ice Cream
Falckensteinstrasse 7, 10997 Berlin, near corner of Schlesische Strasse
These guys and girls sell the best take away pizza slices and – right opposite their pizza store – the best takeaway ice cream, too. Open in the summer till very late, it can get very crowded there. The pizza is excellent for 2 EUR per slice and sold right out of the oven. For the ice cream be sure you can manage to eat three scoops, only then you get their freshly made large vanilla waffle with it.

Frittiersalon
Boxhagener Strasse 104, 10245 Berlin. Open Mon from 6 pm till late, Tue – Fri from 12 am till late, Sat / Sun from 1 pm till late
The best alternative to get some burgers and chips without having to go to a McDonald’s, Burger King etc. This place only uses high quality organic food, your meal gets freshly prepared, and their burgers are also far more tasty than the ones from that food chain stores. Very nice place, full of people from the local neighbourhood. They used to have bands playing indoors at the weekends, but I think they gave up on this.
(www.frittiersalon.de)

Curry 36
Mehringdamm 36, 10961 Berlin.
For the most famous Bratwurst go here. This is really the best place and it is open till very late. In the summer still incredibly busy at 2 am.

Weinerei
Veteranenstrasse 14, 10119 Berlin.
A place that is appointed like a huge, comfortable living room. Here you will look out for beer in vain, they offer wine only. The place works like this: You go in and pay 1 EUR first, then you can help yourself with a glass or a bottle of wine. You look around for a free table and then you can spend the evening there tasting different wines. Around 8 pm, buffet is served, usually containing a soup, a main course and cake. Help yourself until the food is gone. That’s mainly it. In the end, you decide yourself how much you want to pay.
(www.weinerei.com)

Berlin Festival
Annual festival for indie and electronic music. Check website for details.
(www.berlinfestival.de)

British Music Week
This annual event has its roots in Berlin. Because it has become so popular, there are also British Music Weeks in other cities around Germany now, but the one in Berlin remains the biggest one.
(www.britishmusicweek.de)

Main Berlin photograph © Daniel Gontz

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